Guidance and advice for looking after your own sails and covers |

LOOKING AFTER YOUR SAILS

As you will appreciate sails are a considerable investment towards any boat, sadly they do not last forever.

How long do sails last? – Now that is the most frequently asked question any sailmaker will hear, and it is not easy to answer. This will depend on the materials used, whether the sails were built for longevity or purely performance in mind, how often they are used both in frequency and mileage, how they have been treated on the boat and how they have been maintained off the boat.

If a sail was never used, was always covered, was never subjected to UV light or salt then it would have an infinite lifespan, but off course this is never the case.

All sail materials deteriorate in use, some more than others but looking after your sails will greatly increase their longevity in both absolute and performance terms.

Listed below are the key ‘enemies’ of sail cloth.

Chafe

This may seem obvious but sails chafe on rigging, spreaders, stanchions, guardrails, split pins etc. This chafe can result in tears which will be obvious but also can gently wear away the resin coatings on woven sails thus exposing the yarn to the elements and reducing the overall stability of the material. Laminate sails can have the ‘Mylar’ film damaged which will lead to premature failure or delamination of the laminate. Careful inspection of the boats rigging, stanchions, guardrails, pulpit, spars etc and careful taping and other preventative cures will reduce this risk to a minimum. It may well be worth fitting patches on the sails in regular contact areas such as spreaders.

Handling

All sails deteriorate if left to flog or flap. The resin finish on woven Dacron or a spinnaker fabric, or the ‘Mylar’ film on laminate sails will quickly break down if the sails are allowed to flog in use. Careful handling on the boat will dramatically increase the longevity of the optimum flying shape.

Most cruising materials including Dacron and Spectra fabrics as well as spinnaker fabrics do not require any special care when folding for storage but it is good practice to flake sails as neat as possible wherever possible. Hard finished racing sails need to be rolled after use rather than folded to avoid hard creases occurring and ultimately the material cracking and splitting in the crease. Laminates are best rolled but gentle flaking is fine but care is required not to form very hard creases. When handling racing sails, care is often taken after sailing to neatly roll the sail up but then the issue is forgotten as the sail is forced below decks, stuffed onto a bunk or left on the floor for crew to trample over – causing far more damage than would be the case if the sail was flaked neatly and gently folded up into a smaller easier to manage bundle. The secret is to consider the big picture and roll or flake the sail that avoids hard creases wherever it is stored as well as just in the putting away process. The other ‘killer’ for racing laminate sails is handling when dropping, hoisting and changing the sail and when gybing the spinnaker. Many race crews roll the sails neatly away after use but only shortly before hand stuffed the headsail down the fore-hatch when changing the sail, or the foredeck crew did a good impression of ice dancing trampling all over the sail while gybing the spinnaker on the downwind leg. It is inevitable that a race crew ned to do a manoeuvre as fast as possible, it may be a race winner but the gentler you can handle the sails the longer they will last and the better they will perform for you.

Shrinkage

It is well known that laminate sails shrink with age, but why? Some of this is due to natural shrinkage due to UV exposure but most of it is due to handling. A high percentage of the laminate is relatively unsupported film (the transparent areas in between the load bearing yarn), when the sail is used the repeated flexing and even worse scrunching the sail, trampling on etc makes the film become bumpy. Imagine screwing up a new sheet of paper and then trying to lay it flat again. It will never be flat again and the distance across the sheet will be slightly smaller. It is the same with laminated sail cloth, so another important reason to treat them gently in use and when stored. The modern Membrane sails with yarn mainly running in the catenary curve of the anticipated load suffer far worse than panelled sails in this respect as there are generally larger spaces between each fibre and therefore larger unsupported areas of film. The more support the film has from either the yarn or even better a woven taffeta the less the shrinkage your sails will experience. If you race your boat IRC or Byron then it is well worth re-measuring your sails each season to maximise your handicap and ensure you are not being penalised for sail area you do not have anymore.

UV Exposure

Exposure to UV light can ruin sails faster than you think. A Polyester (Dacron) headsail rolled away on a roller reefing unit without protective UV strips will last around 4 or 5 years on average even in these northern latitudes before the material is absolutely rotten; at which point the sail will tear with the greatest of ease. This is accelerated greatly in high UV areas like the Mediterranean, Caribbean, Australia etc. It is therefore imperative that sails are removed or protected from UV exposure whenever and wherever possible. Mainsails should always be covered, headsails should have a sacrificial strip fitted to the leech and foot if the sail is going to be left hoisted (and rolled away) for any periods of time or a Genoa cover hoisted around the sail instead. Laziness or cost cutting really is a big mistake! You can test the fabric of your sail or the condition of your UV strips yourself. In the case of UV strips separate the UV fabric from the body of the sail, grip the fabric between your thumbs and fore-fingers of both hands and try to tear the material in the same way that you would open a packet of peanuts. If the material tears in your hands the news is bad! If it does not tear it should be ok for another season at least! If the UV strips fail this test then they can be removed and another set fitted; the UV strips have done their job and protected the sail but like sun tan lotion it is time to re-apply. If the sail has failed then you have little option but to consider replacing the sail.

Some materials and fibres hold up better than others to UV light, but this principle remains common to all material and fibre types. Some fabrics have a UV resistant coating (Dimension-Polyant premium woven Dacron’s and Hydra-Net and Cruising Laminates all have a unique UVi resistant coating and most manufacturers Cruising Laminates have a similar coating ) but these coatings are only ‘resistant’, and much like sun tan lotion it is only a temporary measure, these coatings can extend the UV resistance of fabric by up to 15% but they should not be relied upon and the sails should still be covered or better still removed from the spars completely.

Dirt, Salt and Sand Crystals

Although mostly cosmetic, atmospheric pollutants such as soot, bird droppings, and especially salt and sand can be very detrimental so sails. All of the above can trap or attract moisture to the surface of the fabric be-it a woven or film laminate. This will in turn increase the likelihood of mildew spores and ultimately algae growing on the sail. In woven fabrics this is mainly a cosmetic irritant but for laminates this may well speed or promote the onset of delamination.

Salt and sand crystals can be particularly damaging to any sailcloth. The crystals can and will abrade the surface of the fabric, on a woven fabric they will then nestle in between each yarn and abrade these yarns. This will reduce the strength and stretch properties of the sail and in extreme cases could result in fabric failure. In racing laminates the crystals will abrade the ‘Mylar’ film and result in chafe and ultimately break down the film as well as causing the sail to shrink slightly and reduce performance.

It now will be obvious that regularly rinsing the sails down with water to remove abrasive particles is well worthwhile and should not be considered a waste of time or money. To most of us this will mean washing the sails. This can be done professionally or by yourself.

Washing or Rinsing Sails

You can easily hose down your own sails. It is best done at the end of the season but if possible at intermittent times throughout the year. Choose a calm and preferably warm day. Gently hoist your sail whilst hosing each side as you go. Pay particular attention to the batten pockets, hanks and other hardware. Once rinsed the sail will need to be left to dry thoroughly to reduce the risk of mildew so the winter months are not recommended. Small sails can be washed in the bath with warm water and a mild detergent like ‘Dreft’. Never use bleach or acetone type solutions. Alternatively the sail can be power washed assuming care is taken with the power of the spray not to damage light weight laminates or spinnaker fabrics. It is again very important to thoroughly rinse the sail after washing and again ensure the sail is dry before storing it.

Professional Valeting

We offer a professional laundry service for sails and covers.

Although some lofts do wash sails in-house most sub contract to a specialist marine valeting specialist. Hancock Marine Services are one of the best. http://www.sailcanvascleaning.co.uk/sail-cleaning/

They will inspect each sail and determine the most suitable technique. Laminated or composite sails will be laid out flat on a plastic protective sheet and cleaned using state of the art power washers. Most woven sails are washed the same way but some older and softer sails as well as spinnakers are washed in a large drum single pocket slow revolving washing machine. A variety of soap powders are used to take care of differing fabrics. Bleach is never used. All sails are then inspected and spot cleaned by hand if any significant stains remain. All items are then hung overnight in purpose built drying rooms with large fans to circulate warm air to guarantee sails are clean and dry ready for storage.

Hancock Marine also offer a ‘Mould and Mildew’ washing premium service. The sail is soaked in a bath of water mixed with a special agent that removes the vast majority of mould and mildew stains. The black stains are actually the dead mildew spores and they are almost impossible to remove – even bleach does not remove effectively but the ‘Mould and Mildew’ treatment although not a guaranteed full stain removal does remove the vast majority of stains.

Coatings

We also offer a solution called ‘Seal n Glide’ http://www.sailcanvascleaning.co.uk/holmenkol-products/ or ‘Mclube’ http://www.mclubemarine.com/sailkoteplus/ that can re-vitalise sails which provides a number of benefits.

This solution applied to mainsails, headsails or spinnakers creates a slippery surface that repels water, dirt, salt and offers a slight UVresistant glaze. The advantages are faster sail setting and gybing, reducing the risk of snagging and chafe, increases the sail stability, repels water so reduces mildew and algae growth as well as reduces weight aloft in damp conditions and prevents the tell tales from sticking in damp conditions.

For Blue-Water offshore cruising boats where chafe on seams and stitching is a serious concern we can coat the stitching in a water bourne urethane coating called “Seam Kote 4” which is impact and abrasion (salt) resistant and helps ensure that the sails stitching will make it across the ocean or passage you are planning.

Servicing

Sails can be maintained by checking for damaged stitching, chafe, damaged hardware defective UV strips, delamination in laminated sails etc. This inspection is done by ‘grovelling’ over the sail on ones hands and knees checking every part, every panel and every stitch of the sail.

The key areas we look for is to check every row of stitching including edging tapes and seams, we check for chafe on the luff rope under all luff slides on mainsails and Mizzens and under hanks on headsails, we check the batten pockets for chafe and wear and also check that their method of location is in good condition and that the battens cannot easily escape. We check all areas that are likely to come into contact with the rigging or stanchions and guard rails. We also check that the webbing attachment loops or straps and their stitching are in good condition.

UV Strips

Roller reefing sails left uncovered will deteriorate very quickly even in the UK climate and eventually simply rot away. It is essential that roller or furling headsails are either covered by the form of a dedicated Genoa Sock, or removed altogether or for most of us fitting UV strips on the leech and foot (the exposed parts) of the sail.

We fit Odyssey (a lightweight and UV Stable) polyester fabric to the leech and foot of the sail and this offers protection for most boats for between 4-6 years in the UK (less in high UV areas). Odyssey is the industry norm material for UV strips and has little adverse effect on the shape on the leech and foot of the sail. If the sail will be used in high UV areas like the Mediterranean or the Caribbean we recommend either heavier Sunbrella acrylic UV strips which last longer in the UV exposure but does have an adverse effect on the sail shape or Weathermax which is very light and soft having little adverse effect on shape and excellent UV properties. We can also offer an upgrade to use Tenara Thread. Normal sewing thread eventually degrades and fails due to salt crystals and UV exposure. Tenara thread is also unbreakable and has a guarantee that it will last at least as long as the fabric the cover or sail is made from. For a long lasting cover especially for use in high UV areas we recommend upgrading to Tenara thread. http://www.contender.co.uk/Products/TenaraThread.aspx

This inspection and any subsequent required repairs are then done by a professional sailmaker and if any significant work is required beyond the normal wear and tear we contact the client and talk though the options first before proceeding.

Storage

Sails should always be stored clean and dry and neatly folded or rolled in a warm and dry environment ready for use next time or next season.

LOOKING AFTER YOUR COVERS and CANVAS

Covers help to protect your boat or you from the elements, excess salt, dirt, pollutants and UV light do an enormous amount of damage to your boat and to your skin! As you will appreciate covers are a considerable investment towards any boat, sadly they do not last forever.

All cover materials deteriorate in use, some more than others but looking after your covers will greatly increase their longevity in both absolute and performance terms.

Listed below are the key ‘enemies’ of covers.

Chafe

This may seem obvious but chafe causes damage. Acrylic canvas most commonly used on sprayhoods, enclosures, boom and stacking bag covers have excellent UV resistance but do not have particularly good resistance to chafe and rubbing. This chafe can result in tears which will be obvious but also can gently wear away the PU waterproof coating thus making the covers leak. Try to ensure boom covers do not rub on coach roof winches or the sprayhood and ensure all ropes and wires are kept away from rubbing on covers.

Handling

All covers deteriorate if left to flap so ensure they are tied up properly. It is usually best to tie anything down properly to avoid unwanted flapping.

Shrinkage

It is not commonly understood but cover materials do shrink with age. Some materials less than others. Much of this phenomenon is unavoidable but if washing covers yourself avoid using too warm a water and domestic washing machines. Washing in the bath or with a hose pipe is normally better advice but the best advice to have the covers professionally laundered.

UV Exposure

Exposure to UV light can ruin covers faster than you think. Acrylic canvas and newer fabrics like Weathermax have excellent UV properties, none the less careful fabric selection is the key to long lasting covers, if the boat is not being used for a long period of time then items like sprayhoods, dodgers etc could be removed to maximise longevity.

Dirt, Salt and Sand Crystals

Although mostly cosmetic, atmospheric pollutants such as soot, bird droppings, and especially salt and sand can be very detrimental so cover material. All of the above can trap or attract moisture to the surface of the fabric. This will in turn increase the likelihood of mildew spores and ultimately algae growing to the cover. This is mainly a cosmetic irritant but it does adversely affect the breathability of previously breathable materials.

Salt and sand crystals can be particularly damaging to any material. The crystals can and will abrade the surface of the fabric and will then nestle in between each yarn and abrade these yarns. This will reduce the strength and ultimately the longevity of the cover.

It now will be obvious that regularly rinsing the covers down with water to remove abrasive particles is well worthwhile and should not be considered a waste of time or money. To most of us this will mean washing the covers. This can be done professionally or by yourself.

Washing or Rinsing Covers

You can easily hose down your own covers. It is best done at the end of the season but if possible at intermittent times throughout the year. Choose a warm day with a gentle breeze to allow the cover to airiate when drying. Once rinsed the cover will need to be left to dry thoroughly to reduce the risk of mildew so the winter months are not recommended. Small covers can be washed in the bath with warm water and a mild detergent like ‘Dreft’ never use bleach or acetone type solutions. Alternatively the cover can be hosed down. If detergents are used it is again very important no thoroughly rinse the cover after washing and again ensure the sail is dry before storing it.

Professional Valeting

We offer a professional laundry service for sails and covers.

They will inspect each item and determine the most suitable technique. A variety of soap powders are used to take care of differing fabrics. Bleach is never used. All items are then inspected and spot cleaned by hand if any significant stains remain. All items are then hung overnight in purpose built drying rooms with large fans to circulate warm air to guarantee sails are clean and dry ready for storage.

Hancock Marine also offer a ‘Mould and Mildew’ washing premium service. The cover is soaked in a bath of water mixed with a special agent that removes the vast majority of mould and mildew stains. The black stains are actually the dead mildew spores and they are almost impossible to remove – even bleach does not remove effectively but the ‘Mould and Mildew’ treatment although not a guaranteed full stain removal does remove the vast majority of stains.

Coatings

We also offer solutions called ‘Fabsil’ or ‘303 Fabric Guard’ that can re-vitalise covers which provides a number of benefits.

The ‘Fabsil’ solution applied to any cover and silicones and re-water proofs old canvas. ‘Fabsil Gold’ also has a UV inhibitor to help prolong the longevity of the material.

‘303 Fabric Guard’ offers a similar product and protects against pollutants like acid rain and protects against oil and water based stains but is non silicon and offers slightly better resistance to mildew spores and it does not affect breathability of the material.

Servicing

Covers can be professionally maintained by checking for damaged stitching, chafe, damaged hardware. This inspection is done by ‘grovelling’ over the cover on ones hands and knees checking every part, every panel and every stitch of the cover.

The key areas we look for is to check every row of stitching including edging and batten pockets and lazy jacks hangers on stacker covers. We also check the zips and hardware to ensure that they are in fully working order.

Storage

Covers like sails should always be stored clean and dry and neatly folded or rolled in a warm and dry environment ready for use next time or next season.